Open Landscapes and Hot Spots in Rural Skåne
The province of Skåne in the southernmost part of Sweden serves up a smörgåsbord of choices for herbivores. We spent a few days exploring the northwest and the southeast of “The Provence of Sweden”.
I didn't think twice before saying yes to a road trip around the south of Sweden. I'm a little embarrassed by how little I travelled in my own country, being born and bred in the capital Stockholm and having spent most of my summers by autopilot in Spain or France I was finally on my way to Sweden's own golden coast.
We began with a few days in Malmö (a guide is in the making too ), the vegan-friendly capital of the region before we hit the road in our rented car. What we found was breathtaking landscapes, raw and wild scenery, salt, water and delicious food, both vegan and vegetarian meals and an abundance of stone oven pizzas!
This guide was made in collaboration with VisitSkåne.com, who gave me full creative freedom to choose what to feature here. I have not been asked to endorse or list any specific place. All the recommendations are my personal choices.
If you plan the listed spots, keep in mind that some places are sensitive to seasonal opening hours, so check the website and opening hours information beforehand.
The NORTHWEST of SKÅNE
Genuine sea side cottages and hiking trails
A lovely budget stay. Folksy Vejbystrand is a seaside destination strategically situated for exploring the Northwest corner of Skåne. We stayed in Villa Sigrid, a cute little cottage just a few minutes walk from the sea, it’s the perfect stay for nature explorers. We loved the beaches and picnicked, swam and watched the sunset on our first evening. Our host Vejbystrand Vandrarhem gifted us with delicious local cheese, jams, bread and Swedish slow drip coffee for breakfast, which we enjoyed on the porch of our little cottage. So homey, genuine and Swedish! The region has many small local food producers, we picked up our picnic food from the next tip, Höganäs Saluhall.
Restaurant and food hall with organic, local and international food.
Höganäs Saluhall is situated in a converted warehouse with an old industrial age atmosphere adding to its charm In the sleepy little town Höganäs. We opted for the vegan lunch plate which turned out be a beautiful light vegetable stew with warming North African flavours, add a pinch of cooking love and quality ingredients to that. The lunch includes a generous buffet of sides, and we loved the beetroot crispbreads and bread. We left feeling happy and nourished.
Veggie friendliness: The upstairs restaurant serves vegan lunch daily.
Gardens and gastronomy
Norrvikens Trädgårdar is a dreamy garden museum situated on the edge of the sea. The alley leading up to the greenhouse mansion is flanked by apple trees, growing to the sound of classical music, and what follows is a botanical show of elegance. We wandered through the lush gardens before enjoying a meal outside the Greenhouse cooked by one Swedens finest chefs, Tobias Millqvist. Our lunch at Norrviken was spectacular, beautifully plated and prepared with local ingredients. We left with the feeling that we had just experienced something complete and excellent. Needless to say, I recommend that you visit this place if you are in the region. Unfortunately, this is the only time I had damaged photos in years so sadly I can’t share shots of the beautifully plated food we had,
Veggie friendliness: Norrviken serves a vegetarian or vegan option every day.
Brandstation in Mölle
Fika or lunch by the harbour
The little fishing town of Mölle in Kullabergs Nature Reserve turned out to be the hub of many good things in the Northwest. A perfect spot for hiking, canoeing, climbing or to enjoy a proper fika. The Brandstation Café serves classic Swedish cafe food like cinnamon rolls and pastries, fresh lunch salads and bread with a picturesque view of the sea and harbour.
Veggie friendliness: Vegetarian sandwich and pastry options on the menu.
Mölle Krukmakeri and Pizzeria
Ceramics and wood-fired pizzas
We absolutely loved the local pottery shop that doubled as a Neapolitan style pizzeria, run by a lovely Swedish family! We crushed so much on their best-selling mushroom pizzas that we had to come back for it again the next day. Try some of the locally brewed beverages and if you’re lucky you might be popping in during one of the mini food or jazz festivals.
Veggie friendliness: The pizzas menu has excellent vegetarian choices. The mushroom pizza is considered the best pizza in the house.
Kullaberg Nature Reserve
Rocks, woods, and water adventures
The local adventure guides offer a range of experiences such as cave walking or abseiling from cliffs on Kullaberg. We joined them for a whale safari from the harbour of Mölle. The waves were high, and we were soaked with salt water as our boat speeded towards deep water. I spotted three porpoises, which are small dolphin looking whales before we returned to the mainland. Experiencing the sea from a boat is a lot of fun and refreshing experience, it gives a super opportunity to see the beautiful coastline in its rough majesty. There are more art and adventures to discover in Kullaberg. We hiked to Nimis, a fascinating open-air installation on a hidden beach created by the controversial artist Lars Wilks who declared his driftwood buildings to be an independent state with its own queen and president. Kullabergsguiderna offers a tour by boat to see Nimis from the sea. We hiked through the woods through steep paths bumping into free spirits and art lovers along the way. I wouldn’t recommend that you walk to Nimis with small children or if you are if you re in other ways not fit for climbing. But its absolutely worth to see this hidden gem with your own eyes.
SOUTH EAST SKÅNE
Vegan Dining and Rooms
Isabel Brummer grew up in a famous restaurant family, and now she has carved her own mark as a chef in Skåne with her newly opened vegan restaurant and guest house, the beautiful old house is actually her childhood home that she and her Dutch husband bought back into the family.
We were served a flawless five-course tasting menu with artistic triumphs such as buckwheat caviar, black sesame roasted cauliflower and a sublime radish ceviche. Tastecelebration lets you stay for a dreamy breakfast if you book one of their six double rooms. A must for vegans visiting the area.
Veggie friendliness:: An all-vegan menu through and through.
Design Hotel with Artisan Pizza and Ice Cream and Garden Boutique
Österlens most beautiful minimalist luxury hotel will soothe your eyes and soul with its beautiful, distinct Nordic interiors. Örum collaborates with some of Swedens finest designers like Nirvan Richter of Norrgavel and even the smallest detail in the hotel has a simple and timeless quality.
We slept like kittens in our dark room and loved hanging out in the library. The hotel serves a lovely Scandinavian breakfast, and lunch and dinner can be taken in the Italian style artisan pizzeria. For a sweet fix try Örums own divine brand of ice cream, Frusen Glädje.
If you love gardening and design, don’t miss the adjoint garden shop Blå Spaden which is stocked with the dreamiest selection of handmade new and vintage pots, as well as Japanese garden tools, the desirable workwear jackets from Vetra and an extensive collection of pelargoniums in the next door greenhouse.
Ecological farm, Cafe and Shop
The Mandelman family will inspire visitors with their sustainable farm. Expect blooming crops, fika bread and the romantic setting of a life lived after the seasons.
Enjoy a freshly brewed cup of coffee with a traditional almond or cinnamon scroll, and leave with a bag of fresh vegetables for dinner from the shop. There are animals to pet and feed. A must visit for the back to basics romantics and if you are travelling with children.
Veggie friendliness: Organic food with good vegetarian options on the menu.
A wholly vegetarian cafe. Byvägen 35 is inconspicuous situated in a small village, but it’s by no means invisible to foodies in Sweden. This cosy place serves stone oven baked bread and pastry, lovely vegetarian and vegan lunches and its easy to park on the spacious grounds.
Veggie friendliness: Serves only vegetarian and vegan food.
Slow dining with smokey notes
Hörte brygga is one of the most exciting restaurants in the south of Sweden. By a simple harbour-side building, local and Nordic cuisine is prepared with simple but powerful techniques such as smoking and pickling. The restaurant employs a zero waste vision.
This was one of our top experiences during or holiday in Skåne. A dining experience at Hörte Brygga is relaxed and personal as you pick up each course from the kitchen. The chefs will prepare and chat about the meal while you’re waiting and the sommelier will guide you through locally brewed refreshments. An absolute must for dedicated food lovers.
Veggie friendliness: There’s always a vegetarian option on the menu. Call ahead for vegan dining.
Hidden Paradise Beach for Romantics
The most beautiful beach in Skåne lies beneath Lilla Heden, a small moor behind Knäbäckshusen, a historical village with old style houses and plenty of roses that is worth a stroll alone. Quite spectacularly, there are pine trees on the sandy beach hanging like exotic palm trees giving shadow and privacy to sunbathers. Knäbäckshusen is also a favourite spot for outdoor weddings with a small wooden chapel facing the sea, a truly romantic hideaway. There’s no cafe or food served near the beach so bring a picnic if you are staying for the day.
Adress: Knäbäckshusstranden, 272 95 Simrishamn N
Food for thought! The Stone ship Ale Stenar
This astounding ancient megalithic stone ship sits on the edge of the Baltic sea on a majestic hill! During sunset and sunrise, the stones appear extra magical casting long shadows on the grounds. The site dates back to the Nordic iron age ) ca 1400 ago and it’s still a mystery to archaeologists why the 69 stones were once erected.
Ale stenar, 271 78 Löderup
Seaside spa and luxury resort
If you feel the need to pamper yourself with saunas and wellness treatments head to Ystad Saltsjöbad. The resort has soothed and soaked guests for more than 110 years and is an institution in the region. The spa is more classic preppy beach house than buddha bar chill, expect an exclusive but inviting sphere. Retreat to the outdoor sun beds with a good novel facing the sea or spoil yourself with a yoga class or massage between sauna and swimming. Book a room or come for the day.
Veggie friendliness: vegetarian options on the menu.
For more information and inspiration from the region pop into website of Visit Skåne.